14.4 Kobe Nankin-machi (December 21-22)#

When we arrived at “Shin-Kobe Station” on December 21, I briefly thought to myself, “I’ve been had.” Since the Shinkansen station is located on the mountainside, quite a distance from the bustling city center, transportation didn’t seem as convenient as expected. However, I later discovered that our hotel’s location was actually excellent—right next to one of the entrances to Kobe Chinatown (Nankin-machi) and just a stone’s throw from JR Motomachi Station.

When traveling abroad, we rarely visit Chinatowns. However, upon returning from Osaka on the evening of the 21st and getting off at JR Motomachi Station, we had to walk through Chinatown to get back to our hotel. Passing through the central square, I was drawn to a set of stone statues representing the Twelve Chinese Zodiac signs, so we decided to pay another visit on the morning of the 22nd before heading out.

Kobe’s Nankin-machi differs from Yokohama Chinatown; it consists of two streets forming a cross shape. While not particularly large in scale, the shops—mainly eateries—are incredibly dense, filling the area with a lively “yatai” (food stall) atmosphere.

Passing by the square, my attention was caught by a long queue. It was for “Roshoki”, a historic shop established in 1915 that claims to be the birthplace of the “Original Pork Bun” (Butaman). As vegetarians, we naturally had no chance to taste these pork buns, but seeing that perennially long line was enough to prove its extraordinary reputation.

Behind this lively bustle lies a heavy history. During World War II, this area was razed to the ground, and in the post-war period, it temporarily became a chaotic black market. In 1995, the Great Hanshin Earthquake also caused severe damage to Nankin-machi. However, the vitality of this place is incredibly strong—just days after the earthquake, shopkeepers in Nankin-machi set up cooking pots beside the ruins to cook hot meals and distribute them to disaster victims.

The archways and orderly layout we see today are the results of post-disaster reconstruction and urban renewal. This street is not merely a tourist attraction; it is a testament to the resilient spirit of the people of Kobe.