4.1.1 The White Heron and the Fire Drill#
On the morning of December 23rd, we took the JR “Special Rapid” service from Kobe to Himeji. We deliberately forewent the expensive Shinkansen in favor of this commuter express, which is highly regarded by locals—for reasons I will explain later.
Situated on the Harima Plain, Himeji—like Tokuyama and Yasugi before it—is a vital industrial hub in Western Japan. However, unlike those cities, the industrial atmosphere of steel and factories here is completely overshadowed by the brilliance of a single “National Treasure”: Himeji Castle, widely hailed as the finest castle in Japan.
Stepping out of the station’s North Exit, we didn’t even need to look at a map. Our eyes were instantly drawn to the dazzling patch of white in the distance. The broad “Otemae-dori” avenue extends in a perfectly straight line, resembling a pilgrimage path paved specifically to lead travelers to the castle’s feet. The street is lined with graceful bronze statues, perfectly complementing the city’s artistic atmosphere.
Up close, the structure known as the “White Heron Castle” is even more awe-inspiring. Its walls possess a striking, pristine whiteness, the result of the major Heisei-era restoration that faithfully recreated the plastering techniques of the early Edo period. Yet, what truly makes this a source of pride is its status as a “Miracle Castle.” For over four hundred years, it has never been engulfed in the flames of war. Even during the air raids of World War II, when the surrounding city was reduced to scorched earth, the castle alone survived intact.
Precisely because of this precious yet vulnerable wooden construction, fire prevention is treated with the utmost seriousness here. By a stroke of luck, we arrived just as a fire drill was underway. Witnessing the water cannons and the firefighters’ maneuvers was more than just a visual spectacle; it was a profound reminder of the modern-day caution and effort dedicated to safeguarding this “Castle of No War” that has withstood the currents of history.
