4.1.4 Gokoku Shrine#

On our way to Itate Hyozu Shrine, we passed a large Torii gate. On our return leg, we decided to step inside and take a look.

This turned out to be the “Hyogo Prefecture Himeji Gokoku Shrine.”

Compared to the bustling crowds at Himeji Castle, the atmosphere here was exceptionally solemn and quiet. A quick check of the records revealed an interesting detail: typically, each Japanese prefecture hosts only one Gokoku Shrine (Shrine for the Protection of the Nation). However, Hyogo Prefecture is an exception, possessing two (the other is in Kobe). This perhaps underscores Himeji’s unique historical status as a “Military Capital” (the garrison base of the Imperial Japanese Army’s 10th Division) prior to World War II.

It is both ironic and touching that this place, dedicated to the spirits of fallen soldiers, is now a popular venue for local weddings. Seeing Himeji Castle—the “Castle of No War”—standing quietly in the background behind the Torii, witnessing the peace and happiness of the modern generation, feels like the best possible answer to history.

At the time of our visit, the shrine was already adorned with countless lanterns in preparation for the upcoming “New Year’s Festival of Ten Thousand Lanterns.” I imagine that when night falls and ten thousand lights are lit at once, the sight must be spectacular. Regrettably, by New Year’s Eve, we would already be back in Hong Kong, destined to miss this sea of lights.