4.1.3 Itate Hyozu Shrine#

Leaving Koko-en, we walked back toward the train station along Otemae-dori. A casual glance to the east revealed a striking vermilion building that immediately caught my eye, and we decided to head over and investigate.

It turned out to be Itate Hyozu Shrine, locally known as the “Harima no Kuni Soja” (The General Shrine of Harima Province). This shrine is quite unique in that it simultaneously enshrines two main deities, perfectly embodying a dual blessing of “Military Fortune” and “Fate”:

Itate no Okami (identified as Isotakeru-no-Mikoto, the son of Susanoo) : He is the god of forestry, symbolizing pioneering spirit and victory, and is the guardian of martial fortune (Buun).

Hyozu no Okami (identified as Okuninushi-no-Mikoto) : Yes, we encountered Okuninushi yet again, following our visit to Izumo! He is the deity governing agriculture, commerce, and connections (En).

The relationship between this shrine and Himeji Castle is inseparable. Successive lords of Himeji Castle (including the Honda, Sakakibara, and Sakai clans) made it a rule to worship here to pray for a peaceful reign before officially entering the castle. Even the famous strategist Kuroda Kanbei (and his father, Kuroda Mototaka) held this shrine in high regard and donated funds for its restoration.

Historically, the shrine’s current location dates back to 1581. It was famously relocated here by Toyotomi Hideyoshi during the construction of Himeji Castle, specifically to strengthen the castle’s defenses and enhance its spiritual layout (Feng Shui).

In front of the main gate (Zuishinmon), stands a charming stone statue known as the “Petting Owl” (Nade Mimiduku). The owl is revered here as a divine messenger, symbolizing “good omens” and “wisdom.” Legend has it that stroking the statue grants one increased wisdom and good luck.

While it cannot compare to Izumo Taisha in sheer scale, the architecture here is grand and the atmosphere (“aura”) is exceptional. Standing before the solemn vermilion hall, one can sense a unique gravity—a kind of quiet dignity that has settled over the place after weathering the storms of the Warring States period.