4.1.2 Koko-en Garden#

After touring Himeji Castle, we headed to the adjacent “Koko-en” garden. By then, it was past 1:00 PM, and lunch was our top priority. We had heard of “Kassui-ken,” a restaurant located within the garden famous for offering views of the scenery while you dine, so we headed there hoping to get a table. Although there was a queue, we were lucky enough to be seated after only a ten-minute wait.

It truly lived up to its reputation. The restaurant’s atmosphere was serene and elegant, framed by the lush greenery outside the windows, allowing us to enjoy a delicious lunch in a thoroughly relaxing setting.

I have visited many ancient Japanese structures, and strictly speaking, Koko-en is not an “historic site” in itself. It is actually a period-style garden constructed in 1992 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Himeji’s municipalization. However, its construction was incredibly meticulous. It was built upon the excavated ruins of the Lord’s “West Residence” (Nishi-Oyashiki) and the surrounding samurai quarters. Furthermore, the design strictly followed the archaeological “Jiwari” (historical plot layout) found during excavations. In other words, the paths beneath our feet were remarkably likely to be the very same ones samurai walked centuries ago.

Because it retains such a rich Edo-period atmosphere, it has become a preferred filming location for many Japanese period dramas (jidaigeki), the most famous of which is undoubtedly the movie Rurouni Kenshin.

I have never watched Rurouni Kenshin and had no intention of making a “pilgrimage” for it, but the rustic, authentic charm of the garden was something I could deeply feel and appreciate nonetheless.